Many people dismiss lab-grown meat as slick, soulless and completely artificial. Slow-food enthusiasts and organic-only eaters feel uncomfortable dining on a food that seems utterly divorced from centuries of traditional farming and cooking. In response to these concerns, rustic in vitro bioreactors bring artisanal production methods back to cultured meats. The shapes of these bioreactors recall primal cuts of beef or whole Spanish hams. As the meat grows over the course of several months, it develops deep, complex flavors that range from black truffle to oak. The longer rustic in vitro is left to ripen, the more character the replicating cells acquire.